It's very easy to damage the B-screw plate or snap/bend the B-screw itself. Use the photo, in the next step, for reference.

-Thread the main rear derailleur bolt into the hanger (Fig 7) and tighten to 8-10 Newton meters or

one small grunt.

Rear Derailleur Adjustment:

This second portion can be done independently of the steps for install. Just shift into the middle chainring and smallest cog, use the 5mm hex key to loosen the cable fixing bolt, and turn the barrel adjusters on the rear derailleur and right shifter clockwise until some resistance is met and then counter clockwise one whole turn. This is is done to allow for some adjustment. Also, this adjustment can be made without removing the chain.

-While turning the cranks, use your hand to push the rear derailleur toward the spokes until it stops and hold it in position.

-Adjust the position of the guide pulley (upper) directly under the largest cog. (Fig 8) Do this by turning the "L" low limit screw counter clockwise to move the pulley closer to the spokes and clockwise away from the spokes.

-Turn the cranks a few times and let the rear derailleur return to its normal position. Use the "H" high limit screw to position the guide pulley just a hair to the right of the smallest cog. (Fig 9)

-In this same position, reattach the derailleur cable and snug down the bolt with the 5mm hex key.

It's not necessary to pull very hard on the cable, as we have already properly positioned both of the barrel adjusters.

-Install the chain. If using a different rear derailleur cage length, shorten the chain to the proper length as described in Mojo Mag #1.

-Shift chain to the middle ring and the smallest cog.

*-Spin the cranks and get the rear wheel spinning at a moderate to high speed.

-Stop the cranks from spinning but don't stop the wheel (let 'er spin).

-Without spinning the cranks, press the thumb shifter (Shimano) or twist the grip shifter (SRAM) two clicks.

-Jerk the cranks back into motion and check which cog the chain falls.

-The chain should be on the third from the smallest cog.

-If it's on the second from the smallest or first cog, then turn the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur, counter clockwise, while spinning the cranks, until the chain gets to the third cog. (Fig 10)

-Repeat the process (from the step with the asterisk) and check that the chain ends up on the third cog.

-If it passes the third cog, turn the barrel on the rear derailleur clockwise, (Fig 11) while turning the cranks, and repeat the process from the asterisk.

-Now, repeat the steps from the asterisk (spin cranks, stop cranks, wheel spins, double click, spin cranks again, note chain placement) but this time, start on the largest cog rather than the smallest. After clicking twice and spinning the cranks back into motion, you should end up on the third from the largest cog. Use the barrel adjuster as needed.

-Finally, we'll set the B-screw. (Fig 12)

-Shift to the smallest chainring and the largest cog.

-While turning the cranks backward, make sure that the teeth of the guide pulley do not strike the teeth of the largest cog. (Fig 13 and 14)

-If they do, using a flathead screwdriver, turn the B-screw clockwise to increase the tension. This will move the guide pulley away from the teeth of the largest cog.

The goal is to get the pulley as close to the largest cog as possible. This will result in quicker, less hesitant shifts, and fewer "ghost shifts" while riding over bumpy terrain.

-Cut any excess cable to a length of 45mm and cap.

The barrel adjuster on the shifter body is used for fine tuning and can be used, with caution, while riding. If the chain hesitates to shift to a larger cog, turn the adjuster counter clockwise. If it hesitates to shift to a smaller cog, turn the adjuster clockwise.

If at this point, it's not shifting well, then the cable might be worn, grimy, there may be a kink, or the housing may be worn, causing a lot of drag. Replace cable and housing. Also, check for a bent hanger or a twisted derailleur cage. Another common problem is housing that was cut too short. Look for severe bends in the housing that may be restricting the movement of the cable. Replace that single piece of housing. If the cables and housing are older than 8 months and a

non-sealed system, consider replacing both cable AND housing.

Finally, check that the chain shifts smoothly from one cog to the next, up and down the cassette. One important note, allow for at least two revolutions of the crank before pressing the lever or twisting the shifter. Shifting furiously from one cog to the next will not allow for a good assessment of cable tension.

Front Derailleur Install:

-Shift into the smallest chainring and smallest cog.

-Using the chain tool, choose a pin to break somewhere in the chain. if using a SRAM chain, disassemble the Power Link.

-Use the cable/housing clippers to cut the cap off the front derailleur cable.

-With the 5mm hex key, first loosen the cable fixing bolt and then the clamp fixing bolt on the front derailleur.

-Remove the front derailleur from the frame.

There aren't too many parts that can be used off of an old front derailleur, other than the limit screws and main clamp bolt. Again, keep it for back up if it's still in good working order.

Also, there are 5 different types of front derailleurs: a top swing with either a top or bottom pull

fig 15

bottom swing with either a top or bottom pull

fig 16

and the E-type which mounts to the fixed, flanged, cup of a bottom bracket.

fig 17

Some frames accept only one type of front derailleur so, if you're up grading or replacing, make sure to get the exact same type to avoid any confusion.

Along with the types, there are the different clamp sizes: 28.6, 31.8, and 34.9 The number is usually stamped on the inside of the clamp band or on the underside of the same band. (Fig 18) Make sure you get the exact same clamp size.

-Turn the barrel adjuster on the left hand shifter clockwise until resistance is met, then turn counter clockwise one whole turn.

If you're installing an E-type front derailleur, you'll need to remove your cranks and bottom bracket (refer to Mojo Mag #5). Slip the bottom bracket through the hole on the front derailleur plate so that the plate seats against the flange on the driveside cup. Reinstall the bottom bracket, make sure the front derailleur's black or gray plastic collar is seated against the seat tube of the frame, and tighten the bottom bracket cup.

-Apply some grease to the main clamp bolt threads and underside of the bolt head. (Fig 19).

-Wrap the clamp band around the seat tube.

-Thread in the main fixing bolt and only tighten the bolt enough to prevent the front derailleur from moving freely.

-Position the front derailleur so that the lower edge of the outside plate sits from 2 to 4 millimeters from the tallest tooth on the large chainring. (Fig 20)

-Next, position the same outside plate of the front derailleur so that it is perfectly parallel with the largest chainring. (Fig 21)

-Install the chain.

Front Derailleur Adjustment:

This second portion can be done independently of the steps for install. Use the 5mm hex key to loosen the cable fixing bolt and turn the barrel adjuster on the shifter body clockwise until some resistance is met and then counter clockwise one whole turn. This is done to allow for some adjustment.

All chains and cog/chainring combinations make some sort of slight noise. This is normal even after they have been lubed. Occasionally i'll mention that an adjustment needs to be made until the chain is quiet. By this, I mean, that the chain no longer rubs against the plates of the front derailleur. Aside from listening for noise, you can also look between the cage and chain for daylight.

-You should be in the largest cog and smallest chainring.

-Using your hand, pull the front derailleur toward you, until the inner plate of the front derailleur cage presses against the chain.

-While holding the derailleur in that position, turn the "L" low set screw clockwise to fix the cage in place. Let go of the cage and double check to make sure the inner cage is pressing against the chain by turning the cranks and listening for chain noise

-While slowly turning the cranks, turn the "L" low limit screw counter clockwise, until the chain is quiet. There should be a gap between the inner cage plate and the chain of 1 to 3mm. (Fig 22)

-Clamp down the front derailleur cable. (Fig 23)

Make sure that the small plate, not the bolt head, clamps the cable. Make sure not to pull too hard on the cable. You just want it to get rid of the slack. Put away the pliers.

-Using the flathead screwdriver turn the "H" high limit screw on the front derailleur counter clockwise about 1 whole turn.

-Shift into the smallest cog.

-Shift into the middle chainring.

-Carefully, shift into the largest chainring. Make sure not to throw the chain off the largest chainring. If it falls off, simply shift back to the middle while continuing to turn the cranks.

-If there is no chain noise in the smallest cog and biggest chainring combo, skip ahead to the next step marked with the single asterisk.

-if there is chain noise, turn the barrel adjuster on the left shifter counter clockwise, while turning the cranks, until the chain is quiet. There should be a gap between 1 to 3mm between the outer cage plate and the chain. (Fig 24)

-Using the flathead screwdriver, turn the "H" high limit screw on the front derailleur until resistance is met.

-Press the thumb paddle on the left shifter or twist the left shifter back, while looking to see that the front derailleur does not move. If it moves more than 4mm (eyeball it), turn the "H" high limit screw clockwise in half turns, until the play is less than 4mm.

-Shift to the middle chainring and smallest cog.

-Spin the cranks and check to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the front derailleur. If it is not, skip ahead to the step with the double asterisk.

-If there is chain noise in the middle chainring and smallest cog, turn the barrel adjuster on the left shifter counter clockwise, while spinning the cranks, until the chain is quiet. (Fig 25)

**-Stay in the middle chainring and shift to the largest cog. If the rear derailleur will not stay in the largest cog, turn the barrel adjuster on the rear derailleur counter clockwise a whole turn.

-While spinning the cranks, check to make sure the chain does not rub the front derailleur inner cage.

-If there is chain noise, turn the barrel adjuster clockwise, while spinning the cranks, until the chain is quiet.

-Shift to any middle cog and check that the chain shifts smoothly from one chainring to another.

-Cut any excess cable to a length of 45mm and cap.

Here are some problems that will cause shifting problems with the front derailleur:

-a frame that is out of alignment

-too long a bottom bracket spindle

-too short a bottom bracket spindle

-an 8 speed chain used with a 9 speed components and vice versa

These problems, except for the last, will need the attention of a qualified mechanic. Parts may need to be replaced or adjusted in some non-traditional way (in some cases) or the frame may need to be

checked for alignment.

In one or two rides, the cables will stretch. Be ready to make some turns of the barrel adjusters. If the slack taken up causes an excessive amount of barrel to be exposed, readjust the derailleurs to prevent damage to the adjusters during a crash.

Maintenance:

Front and rear derailleurs don't need much in the way of lube. Dripping oil in the pivots leads to premature pivot slop and all sorts of shifting problems. The derailleur pivots turn on super smooth brass and ceramic bushings. Keeping the chain lubed helps more than lubing derailleur pivots. Remove, clean, and lube the chain every 4 months (refer to Mojo Mag #1 for a quick and easy way) to prolong the life of the drivetrain.

If the cable are frayed at the ends, clip 5 mm off and cap them. If it leaves you with less than 40mm, replace the cable. Check periodically for chipped pulley wheel teeth, bent cages, bent derailleur hangers, rounded out bolt heads, loss of return tension at the main pivot, and pivot slop. If any of these problems pop up and you don't have spare parts, replace the derailleur.