BiKe HaiKu
(free form)

This procedure takes into account 7, 8, and 9 speed drivetrains.

Start by shifting into the smallest chain ring and the smallest cog. (Fig 1) Using your chain tool, select a pin in the old chain and break. (Fig 2) Remove old chain.

While it is possible to use the old chain to the measure the new one, new cassettes with different gear spreads, new rings with a different number of teeth, and new rear derailleurs with different cage lengths, make this a bad idea. It's always best to measure the new chain properly.

Also, it's highly recommended to install a fresh set of rings to go with that new chain. Running a new chain with an old set of rings can lead to a skipping chain, chain suck, and/or shifting problems. If the rings are fairly new, it's possible to install a new chain without any problems. Getting on a chain ring/chain replacement schedule eliminates having to guess as to whether a ring is worn or not. A new cassette is a good idea as well but in many cases, the rings wear out long before the cassette.

If you have a chain whip (Fig 2b), the type used in conjunction with a cassette lock ring tool, you can use the old chain to replace broken or worn out segments on the whip.

Many chain manufacturers make their chains from various alloys of steel. On the long trip from the factory to the shop's shelf, they need to be protected. Most chains will come with a coat of a tenacious grease. In order to get the maximum life out of the new chain and the maximum performance from your favorite lube, completely remove all of the factory grease from the chain before installation.

A quick and easy way to degrease a chain is as follows. Set the chain on a table or bench. Liberally soak the chain with the degreaser of your choice. Use the small brush to scrub the tops, sides, and areas in between all the links (Fig 3). Thoroughly rinse off the degreaser with water and set the chain down on a towel to dry.

Run one end of the new chain through the front derailleur cage and over the smallest chain ring leaving about 8 inches (202 mm, for those using the new math) to dangle down toward the ground. Run the other end over the cassette's smallest cog and then, through the rear derailleur cage. (Fig 4) Make sure that the chain crosses over, not under, the pin that's located between both of the rear derailleur pulleys. (Fig 5) In this photo, the chain is pulled away from the guide pulley (top pulley) to better show the correct path of travel around the pin.

Now for the critical part. Take the two ends of the chain and bring them together. An old spoke or wire coat hanger can be cut to a length of about 12 inches (305 mm) and hooked on both ends to hold the chain. (Fig 6) Remove as many links from the chain so that the rear derailleur cage is parallel with the ground. (Fig 7) If necessary, set the bike on the ground.

If using a Shimano chain, included in the package, is a special two piece pin included. Insert the tapered end first and push through using the chain tool until the second pin is just about flush with the outer link. Snap off tapered end. Check to see that there is an equal amount of pin on either side and adjust as needed.

If the newly assembled link is stiff, grab a handful of chain on either side of the newly assembled pin and flex the chain laterally (sideways). This will loosen the new pin if it has bound on the outer plates of the new chain

If using a SRAM chain, cut the chain one link shorter to accommodate for the included Power Link. The Power Link does not require a chain tool for assembly. Assemble the Power Link halves as per the instructions. Also, do not assemble SRAM chains without the Power Link, as this voids the warranty.

Shift into any middle cog and the middle ring. While rotating the cranks backwards, apply your favorite chain lube where the chain engages the cog. (Fig 8) The amount of lube required will change from brand to brand so read the instructions.

Generally, for oil based/drip and wax lubes, apply as much as needed to coat the chain but not cause the lube to drip.

Maintenance:

The best way to check for a worn chain is with a chain checker. (Fig 9) If you don't have one, it's not unheard of to swing by your local shop and ask if you can have your chain checked, as the process only takes about 5 seconds. Occasionally check the chain for excessive lube build up. If this is the case, repeat the process above for removing the factory grease. Check for bent or twisted links and pins that have started to back out or have become unseated from their plates.

Check cassette cogs to make sure they are not bent or missing teeth. If there is a ticking noise coming from the cogset, there maybe a loose rivet. If the cassette is less that a year old, the bike shop may agree to replace it under warranty.

Check chainrings for bent, missing, or chipped teeth. Also, check to see that the whole ring itself is not bent. While you're there, check to make sure that chainring bolts are tight as well as the crankbolts, pedals, and front and rear derailleur fixing and mounting bolts.

kvestions? confusion? comments?