MOJO MAG ISSUES  >> 01 | 02 | 03 | 04 | 05 | 06

--Line up your tire labels with the valve stem on the rim.  If you have two labels on the tire pick the one with the manufacturer's name.  Normally, you should be able to read these labels on the drive side but many tires can be run in two different directions so this might not apply.  The most practical reason for this is to help locate a thorn, piece of glass, or anything else than can cause a flat.  After removing the tube from the tire, pump it full of air to find the leak, line up the valve with the label, and use the air leak in the tube as reference to find the area where the thorn may still be lodged in the tire.

--Most flat handlebars have a bend to them, regardless of where the label on the bar faces, the bend should always be angled toward your shoulders.   In the case of riser bars, you'll need to look at the part of the bar that creates the rise, line this up parallel with your front fork legs.  These two tips will ensure that your hands get the best position possible on the bar and help to keep weight evenly distributed across the grip.  Fine adjustments can be made after a few rides but this is a really good starting point.

 --Install the Quick Release (QR) levers on the non-drive side.  Nothing too practical here but looks good.  If you run disk, install the QR level on the opposite side (weird, I know) so that you don't burn your hand when you open the lever to change a flat or contaminate the rotor with sweat. 

--Install the front wheel so that the label of the rim can be read from the drive side of the bike.  If there is no label on the rim, install the wheel so that the hub label can be read from the rider's point of view.  If there is no label on either, you have one less thing to worry about.  Again, this all gives a consistent feel to the bike set up.  

--Cut the ends of the front and rear derailleur cables to 45mm and cap.  Cutting them this short will leave enough room to grab when cable adjustments are needed as a result of cable stretch.  Also, the derailleur cables can get caught up in the derailleur cage in the rear or get chewed by the chain rings, if they are too long.  Cut the brake cable ends to 70mm and cap.  Frayed and too long a brake cable can poke holes in calves and get caught between the pad and rim.

--Always use the valve rings that are included with the tubes.  They help to prevent the valve separating from the tube when you press on a pump head to a partially inflated tube.  The rings only need to be tightened enough to keep from loosening.  A clean running bike is also important.

--Shifting makes up for more than half of the problems associated with bikes.  Whether the problem is with the shifters or the derailleurs, it's almost always a problem with dirty or worn cables.  Cables last, on average, about 800 miles and this is assuming you have "ideal" riding conditions.  Change them!  Make sure to change not only the cable but the housing as well.  If the cables are new-ish then check to see if there are any kinks in the cable as a result of a crash.  These kinks can bind in the housing and cause trouble.  Kinked and damaged housing can also cause shifting problems.  Replace the offending piece.  In some cases, the ends of the derailleur housing that enter the ferrule (which enters the cable stop on the frame) can cause shifting problems when the metal strands, that help to keep the housing's shape, protrude out the ends of both the outer and inner housing sheath.  This is caused buy the twisting and flexing of the housing under the tension of the cable. 
Check the rear derailleur housing for this problem by shifting into the smallest chain ring and the largest cog.  Without turning the cranks, click (or twist) the shifter to the smallest cog.  With the extra slack you can remove the housing and the ferrules from the cable stops on the frame.  Pull the ferrule off the housing and inspect, if damaged, it can be trimmed, UNLESS, it results in too short a length of housing.  Replace as needed. 

Check the front derailleur housing by shifting into the smallest cog and the biggest chaining.  Without turning the cranks, click the shifter into the smallest chaining.  Now you can remove the housing and ferrules to inspect for damage.  Replace as needed.

--Brakes.  They just slow you down.  So get rid of them!!!!  Unbolt them from the frame and fork brake bosses with a 5mm hex key and use them as wind chimes or, with a slingshot, fling them at cars from an overpass.  Bonus points are awarded if the brake arm lands in the bed of a truck.  If you like brakes and the benefits they offer, mainly, the ability to slow down or stop, here are
some tips to make sure you become a sloooower and sloooooooooower rider.  The tips for checking the condition of the  cables and housing also apply to brakes as well.  In addition, check that you're getting the most power out of your V brakes.  When the pads touch the rim make sure the arms don't angle toward the tire past vertical.  No upside down Vs!  For cantis, make sure you
straddle cable hasn't popped out of the straddle.  For disk, check to make sure your rotor isn't bent or warped.  Also, check for leaks in the line.  Replace the line and re-breed.  If there excessive play in V brake arms or pad carts., toss them out and purchase the new upgraded versions OR purchase a shim kit.  If you happen to have the 98-01 Shimano V brakes, you can buy a shim kit that will remove the play in either the arm and/or carts.  XTR brakes need a shim kit for the carts. and a set of 10 and 13mm cone wrenches for the arms.  XTs will require a shim kit for both the arm and the cart.  LX will require a shim kit for the arms.

--Chain line is something that can get a little complicated because many frame, crank arm, and chaining companies have not set a standard as far as compatibility is concerned.  Without getting too swamped into details about compact/standard, 5/4 arm, Shimano/aftermarket, ramped/pinned, flanged,
non-flanged BBs, Q factors, yadda yadda yadda, I'll simply mention chain line and how it affects shifting.  Imagine a centerline down the seat tube of a frame.  Usually you'll find water bottle bolts at this point or a shock mount or pivot.

>From this centerline measure outward to the middle ring.  For the best shifting, whether Shimano or aftermarket, this needs to measure  between 47.6 mm and 50mm.  If the middle rings sits closer, lets say 45mm from the center line of the seat tube, then the front  will hit the seat tube before it can derail the chain from the middle to smallest ring.  If the middle ring sits farther away, lets say 52mm, then the throw in the left hand shifter will not be sufficient to get a crisp shift to the largest chaining.  Remedies are a shorter or longer spindle OR, if you have a flangeless (read: Non-Shimano) BB, it's possible to readjust the chain line by threading it to the nondrive or drive side.  There is a limit to this adjustment and you'll know when you've reached it because you'll be able to see the threads of the BB shell. 

If it's time for a bike wash skip the pressure washer and take an hour, hell, take two, and give your ride a little shower of love. Collect a one gallon bucket, some grease cutting dishwashing detergent, a hose with "gun", and a plastic-bristled brush.  Spray down the bike (skip wetting the handlebar, seat, and seat post area unless it was a REALLY muddy ride) with a light mist.  Fill that small bucket with some hot water from the tap and add a few drops of Ajax, Dawn,.....  Use the brush to apply gobs of suds to the derailleurs, cranks, pedals, brakes, and anything else that's filthy.  Don't worry about getting the cassette spotless, most people spend way too much time on that one part anyway.  Replenish the suds by blasting the bucket with the hose and repeat until the grime's on the run.  Don't spray water up or into the housing ends at the cable stops.  Give the bike one final light,
misty, spray and wipe away all the water with a rag, cloth, old shirt......whatever.

questions? confusion? comments?
Speak it on the boards.