MOJO MAG ISSUES  >> 01 | 02 | 03 | 04 | 05 | 06

Instead I'd wanted to address the concerns of regular bike maintenance mentioned in the "mouth off" (hehehe) section. A head tube to dropout sort of check list and what to do if you spot, hear, or feel something weird.

We'll go from brakes, derailleurs and shifters, drive train, wheels and headset, and misc. Since many of the minor things have been mentioned in previous issues I'll try not to repeat myself. Refer to those issues as needed.

Brakes -----> The most common problem in this area is a sluggish cable. No sense in cleaning the cable 'cause the grimes in the housing. Replace both the cable AND housing. Whether you get a sealed set or non-sealed make sure you start out with a totally DRY cable system. Shimano has always recommended a dry system; the sheath inside helps to keep the cable gliding smoothly.

In a pinch you can add a few drops of a light lube but in most cases it's time for new cables if that's needed. If the cables are new and feel sluggish then there may be a problem with the cable routing and/or length. Check this by turning the handlebar so that it is parallel to the top tube of the frame. The cable routing from the brake lever to designated cable stop should as short as possible without causing the housing to pop out at either the brake lever or the cable stop. Also, is should not be so long as to restrict the motion of the handlebars. If there needs to be an adjustment, cable cutters will be the tool of choice.

Another cause of a sluggish feeling brake will be insufficient tension at the brake arms. Shimano (cantis or V) brakes have one small screw located on each arm at its main pivot. Turn this screw counter clockwise to remove tension and clockwise to add tension. Consequentially, this also set the pads the appropriate distance from the rim (centering), make sure to keep an eye on this while adjusting tension. Avid brakes, depending on the year, will either have a 3 mm hex bolt near the same main pivot point of the brake arm or a standard Phillips/flathead screw as the Shimanos. Most other makers have something similar in the way of adjustment so look around. The only exception is the older avid arch supreme and archrival. These brakes have a centering knob at the top of the arch that requires no tool. Turn and center. This of course is independent of the tension.

Pad placement -----> This is a bit of a tough area since this directly relates to brake performance rather than feel. The pad, regardless of brand, should be centered on the rim. Too close to the roof (where the stickers are usually placed) of the rim and the pad will wear unevenly and, in some cases, get sucked into the spokes. too close the side wall and, well, it can rip through the side wall and cause a blowout....usually on a downhill. When the brakes are a new set up, adjust the pads so that they touch the rim evenly, no "toe in". If squealing begins then toe in the pads. The easiest way to do this is with a credit card or driver's license. This loosens the brake pads fixing bolt. Slip the card between the trailing end of the pad and the rim. Squeeze the brake and tighten the fixing bolt. Make sure you keep the pad centered.

Another problem is lack of braking power. If the cables and pad placements are fine then check the pads. Pads don't last forever. In fact, pads should be changed twice a years to keep consistent braking OR as soon as the wear indicator notes that the pad is worn. Check with each manufacturer as they all have different methods to show pad wear. Sometimes the pad may be new and "glaze" (become very hard, like plastic) or stiffen up in certain conditions. Toss it and replace. No sense in getting out the sandpaper if the pad is glazed to the core.

Shifters ------> There are currently only three types of shifters: Rapid Fire from Shimano, Grip Shift, Half Pipe, Rocket, from SRAM, and friction shifters. The first two are the most common so we'll stick to those.

Rapid Fire is non-serviceable. It's kinda like time travel, in theory It's possible, but in reality... the most common problem with shifters of this type is that, to save weight and money, Shimano has uses plastic ratchets. They break, wear out, strip at the threads, jiggle loose...I'll stop there. If the levers wiggle or have lots of play or don't engage then it's time for new shifters. Fork it over! Since the internals are non-serviceable you could squirt some lube in there but lube isn't a cure-all. Especially of the part in question is broken or worn. Replace if need be.

SRAM's shifters are serviceable. Only three moving parts: the inner and outer race and the spring. The grip and cable hatch are the only two parts. Service is only required once a year. Since there are about 7 different types refer to the manual that you received when you bought the bike or the shifters. SRAM will send you copies for the cost of postage. Use the proper lube, no silicone, lithium, Teflon, or trillium based lubes. There's only one place to up the lube and that's between both races. Apply and close it back up.

Drivetrain ------> The basic drivetrain consists of the cranks/chainrings, the cassette, the chain, and the bottom bracket.

Shimano bottom brackets are non-serviceable. Just about every other brand is and there are only a few things to check here. Of course, this requires a BB tool so if you don't have one have a shop check it out. Ok, so, grease on the BB cup threads. Even though Ti Prep is marketed to people who ride titanium frames, I prefer to use it on all aluminum, steel, and Ti frames. More is on the why in the next issue. Just a preference I have that I think it a really good idea. Anyway, check to see that the chainline is correct for the frame and drivetrain you have (this is mentioned in the last issue).

Make sure to use the proper grease/oil/prep on the proper parts. Cups take grease or Ti-prep and so do the spindles, albeit a VERY light film. Also the crank bolt threads and underside of the bolt heads. Seals, in the case of a Syncros, Race Face, Real, Ringle, etc., require grease or oil (no prep as this eats seals).

Check cranks and chainrings to make sure they are not bent or worn or even missing teeth. Replace as needed. Bent rings are easy to spot since all you have to do is sight the rings as you spin the cranks. Worn rings will skip when under pedaling load. And missing teeth are missing teeth. All of these can lead to shifting problems, chain derailment (the worst kind), and chainsuck (the chain gets wedged between the chainstay and the ring).

Cassettes can have bent cogs and their lock rings can loosen. If the cassette wiggles while attached to the hub have a shop check the freehub and lock ring. These may loose over time and if not attended to can cause serious injury.

Chains - replace them once a year or every 800 miles. Your drivetrain will last longer and shift smoother. Bike wash and chain "stuff" was covered in the last issues.

Wheels and Headset. ------> Headsets require little maintenance if any regardless of type. After the initial settling in you're pretty much set. Once a year is a good interval for an overhaul. Check to make sure the headset is properly adjusted, by firmly applying the front brake and rock the bike back and forth. Make ABSOLUTELY sure you're not compressing the fork when performing this check. Compressing the fork even the slightest amount will make your headset feel loose even though it may be properly adjusted. So, make sure to rock the bike back and forth not up and down. Many headsets have been damaged due to over tightening because the fore was inadvertently compressed while being checked for play. There are two types of headsets, threadless and threaded, since the more common is the threadless, and I'll refer to that type.

To adjust the headset, after play has been detected, loosen the stem bolts (not the top cap bolt). Perform the same rocking motion as you slowly tighten the top cap bolt. No more force than is required to tighten a milk jug cap is needed. If you're adjusting the headset and for some reason are applying more torque that explained above you might have already pitted the raceways of the headset cups or damaged the star-fangled nut. Not good. If after adjustment the headset still feels loose, it may require more spacers and this is best left to a shop.

Wheels will need occasional truing. This is best left to a shop as nipples can be rounded out (useless) and uneven tensions can lead to nipple pulling through the rim's roof. General maintenance would be: check to make sure there are no loose or broken spokes, rounded off nipples, cracked flanges or loose axles, cracked or dented rims. Again, this is best left to a shop.

Misc. ------> This includes just about everything else. Half of this is best left to a shop because of the special tools that are needed and the other half is something you check from day to day. Some may appear on both lists.

For the Shop ------> Shocks, aside from dripping a little lube on the stanchion (upper) when it slides into the lower (slider) there is little in the way of regular maintenance. Most require special tools and about an hour for proper overhaul.

Pedals, most are sealed well and won't need much more than an occasional shot of lube where the cleat of the shoe meets the pedal body. Hubs, most of the time folks walk in a need one bearing 'cause they took the hub apart and one go away. Adjustment on a cup and cone type isn't the easiest, and misadjustment can toast it in a few rides, so hubs, in general, are best lefts to a shop.

At Home ------> Bike Wash. Covered in the previous issue. Not only does a clean bike look better and run smoother but also you can spot frame cracks and corrosion.

Tire Pressure. Use a gauge! So many use the thumb test. You'd be amazed at how your mood affects what you perceive to be the "proper" pressure. It works most of the time but the right way is with a gauge.

Bolts. Loose bolts can creak, tick, and squeal. Remove them; dab on some lube and reinstall.

Chain lube. At least every 3 rides. Most often in muddy conditions.

All The Other Stuff. Check for bent handlebars, ripped sidewalls, bent bar ends, bent seatrails, frayed cables, damaged housing, bent seatposts, loose quick release levers, frame cracks, rim tape placement...

If you, personally, have a specific question that wasn't answered here today there are many shops that have mechanics that can answer your questions. Speaking for myself, I'd be happy to take some time and explain something that wasn't covered here, or something that was covered, but demonstrate it in person. Hell, bring your bike by if you want.

Carlos at The Broadway Bike Show (210) 805-0805

I'm not there everyday but call ahead or send me some e-mail at the Address under my profile.

Questions? Confusion? Comments?  Speak it on the boards.