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Thread: WTB disc brake tubeless wheel set

  1. #1
    MoJo Juggalo gimpy's Avatar
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    WTB disc brake tubeless wheel set

    anyone have a set of disc tubeless wheels and or tires that they want to get rid of??

    i want to try the tubeless thing, but dont have money to buy 1000 dollar wheels. on budget for moab.

    im tired of riding over loose glass all around austin thanks to idiots that break into worthless cars.

    "The Broke Wetback Mountain Biking Rider"

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  2. #2
    Fuhlauto Balogna Ridenfool's Avatar
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    Have you considered trying a tubeless conversion, such as Stans No Tubes or Bontrager Tubeless?

    Quite a bit less expensive than a wheelset.

    I've been using tubeless conversion for six or so years now.
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  3. #3
    MoJo Juggalo gimpy's Avatar
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    welll...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridenfool View Post
    Have you considered trying a tubeless conversion, such as Stans No Tubes or Bontrager Tubeless?

    Quite a bit less expensive than a wheelset.

    I've been using tubeless conversion for six or so years now.
    i thought about it before and wanted to try it...

    but a little bird told me that its bad for the rims if they are not ust approved. i currently have a sun something rear wheel and a mavic x223 in the front. not sure about the birds sources

    i would still have to buy tubeless tires if i decide to run with the conversion kit right??
    "The Broke Wetback Mountain Biking Rider"

    If you were not blood... would you still love?? Or in fact does the blood make you think you have to love??

    GiMpY

  4. #4
    MoJo PoLaR BeAr
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    gimpy: if you have disc wheels, just get the Stan's conversion (or one of the others, but I like Stan's) and set it up. Or get someone who has done it before to set it up. I've got Stan's on one of my wheelsets and been happy with that for 3 years (mavic xm321 rims).

    Buy new tires, preferably not skinny-light-racer-things. Something 2.3-ish will serve you well in Moab and will probably have thick enough sidewalls to seal up well. I've had very good luck with Kenda Short Tracker 2.35 and Small Block 8, Specialized Eskar Control, and a few others. Maxxis ADvantage 2.2x come to mind as a good candidate too (check out Cycle Progression on S. Lamar for good local prices).

    short advice...

    - start with a CLEAN rim and a NEW tire.

    - do not do this in your living room or bed-room. Bathroom maybe. Garage better. Outdoors best.

    - get the correct rim-strip for the rim. This is based upon the width between the rim walls on the INSIDE and nothing else. My XM321 rims measure 21-23 mm inside and use the Rhyo-Lite strip from Stan's. Owing to having different rims front and rear you may need to buy the rim-strips separately. I think I remember seeing bicycle sport shop having them locally, there are of course various other sources.

    - the rim strip, when laid into the rim, should be relatively flat and even and should basically fill up to but NOT AT ALL over the hook on the rim wall - sort of |---___---| shaped - with the | being the rim-walls - the strip has a built in detent in the middle thus the image. For example, I got a perfect layout in my rims by using one strip of Velox road-bike rim-tape over the spokes, with the stan's strip on top of that. No other crap required (no taping n such, which I liked).

    - rim-drilling is *not* required to make it work, but can make things easier - the manual/instructions say you drill out one of the valve holes to make it a bit wider to accomodate the bump where the valve is and help flatten out the rim. I've gone both ways, and found that either works.

    - use the valve-nut to "sternly" tighten the valve/strip into the rim, after you've worked out how to fill the spoke bed under it for even layout (see above) and not before.

    - test fit the tire onto the rim before even THINKING about putting any goop in.

    - have some sort of compressed air handy, either go to the gas-station to use theirs (be careful not to blow-out your tire), or use CO2.

    - do NOT forget to spray the tire bead/rim-edge with soapy-something (I use a diluted Simple Green or Windex) just before inflating. This helps the tire slide across the rim strip and up the rim and seat/hook properly.

    - you CAN completely inflate the whole thing and get it on w/o any goop inside and put goop in afterwards by removing the valve core, but frankly I've found it easy to put goop in just before setting the whole bead. It's not like the tire is going to leak if you hold it correctly.

    good luck.

  5. #5
    MoJo Juggalo gimpy's Avatar
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    damn that bird for lying to me. at least i have dinner for tonight lol

    thanks bear and john. i will try and have them set up by tomorrow for the R&I. hope for the best and shoot for the stars.
    "The Broke Wetback Mountain Biking Rider"

    If you were not blood... would you still love?? Or in fact does the blood make you think you have to love??

    GiMpY

  6. #6
    Fuhlauto Balogna Ridenfool's Avatar
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    As Bear indicated, one of the nice things about the conversions is that you don't need to use a UST specific tire. The sealant will seal the sidewalls of nearly all standard tires quite well.

    If you have two different width rims, Hammerhead sells the rim strips individually.

    A buddy at BSS South tells me that they have the Bontrager strips and valves. That's all he uses and it's worked for him on other than Bontrager rims. As I understand it you have to ask for them in the parts area.

    They are intended to specifically fit the Bontrager rims, but several folks have told me they can be made to work in many other rims. They come in Symmetrical and Asymmetrical. Here's the link to the Bontrager site. Symmetrical is probably the way to go, unless you own Bontrager's Asymmetrical rims.

    Over the years I've been using the Stans products with vey good results. After a few years I've had the valve come loose from the strip on two occasions. (not too big a deal after so many years of service, but a minor aggravation just the same)

    The Bontrager system has a valve that is designed to be removable from the strip. This offers several advantages.

    It clamps in, so it won't come unglued.

    The valve can be removed if you have to use a tube, thus preventing the need to remove the rimstrip.

    I've always kept a ziploc baggie to hold the Stan's strip should the need to remove it arise, fortunately in all the years I've used Stans I've only needed to do this twice.

    Anyway, I am planning to give the Bontrager's a whirl, as my rear wheel is currently running a tube. (EGADS!) I'll probably swing by BSS on my way to the R&I and pick up a strip and a valve for experimentation.
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  7. #7
    MoJo PoLaR BeAr
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    i also wonder how many have done the stan's-yellow-tape-and-valve-instead-of-strip thingy.

  8. #8
    Breathe in, breathe out; repeat. carney's Avatar
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    I've used the stan's strip on a set of new 29" panaracer rampage on non-ust rims. HH set them up and they've been just fine. They do tend to lose air more readily (read: couple of months of non-use or pressure checking) than tubes but are just fine during regular use. I may eventually put them on my 26" wheels but so far have no need.
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  9. #9
    MoJoMoRon bartman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gimpy View Post
    anyone have a set of disc tubeless wheels and or tires that they want to get rid of??

    i want to try the tubeless thing, but dont have money to buy 1000 dollar wheels. on budget for moab.

    im tired of riding over loose glass all around austin thanks to idiots that break into worthless cars.

    I've got a set of used ust crossmax. the front wheel is in good shape, the back wheel has a few miles left in it but it's not in great shape.

  10. #10
    RoBoMoJo Kill Phil's Avatar
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    Bontrager!!!!!!

    My vote is for the Bontrager rim strips and valves. MUCH cheaper, feels more solid when they snap in place, removable stems and cores (so you can use the stans injector when you need to add more and not have to break the seal). I converted my DT Swiss 5.1's w/o an issue.
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  11. #11
    Poppin Fresh Doughboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kill Phil View Post
    My vote is for the Bontrager rim strips and valves. MUCH cheaper, feels more solid when they snap in place, removable stems and cores (so you can use the stans injector when you need to add more and not have to break the seal). I converted my DT Swiss 5.1's w/o an issue.
    +1 for Bontrager's

    I got Jraiden set up with those on his DT Swiss 420s and he was really diggin them with the Eskars.

  12. #12
    Dumb and tough soma's Avatar
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    i've used the stan's strips and specialized pro UST tires on a set of mavic 223's with no problem, so you shouldnt have any problem with at least one rim. the other shouldnt be too hard either.

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