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  1. #1561
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    FYI, there is a recycle tire bin at Performance bikes south.

  2. #1562
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    29x2.2 wire bead wtb wolverine

    Its brand new. I thought it was folding when I bought it.

  3. #1563
    MoJo Pope RidingAgain's Avatar
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    Looking for a rear derailleur ... Shimano Alivio, RD-M430.

  4. #1564
    MoJo Mother Superior TheSarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJsnoozer View Post
    29x2.2 wire bead wtb wolverine

    Its brand new. I thought it was folding when I bought it.
    You still got that Wolverine? I love those tires.

  5. #1565
    MoJo Pope endo_'s Avatar
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    Looking for a 29 inch 12 x 148 rear wheel and hub, that can support my fat ass on the drops. I don't have a lot to offer in terms of parts, but I can pay. I just don't want to get hit by retail price, and need something quick.
    We ride, then we drink!

    A lot!


  6. #1566
    Ayatollah of Rock and Rollah mack_turtle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by endo_ View Post
    Looking for a 29 inch 12 x 148 rear wheel and hub, that can support my fat ass on the drops. I don't have a lot to offer in terms of parts, but I can pay. I just don't want to get hit by retail price, and need something quick.
    there is something wrong with their site at the moment, but these Bitex hubs have been getting really good reviews and are pretty darn cheap. not to be confused with the exploding "Koozer" hubs. https://www.bikehubstore.com/category-s/226.htm

  7. #1567
    MoJo Pope endo_'s Avatar
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    Thanks I will check them out!
    We ride, then we drink!

    A lot!


  8. #1568
    dsc
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    MoJo Priest dsc's Avatar
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    Recently built a wheelset with BHS hub below (and its front counterpart). First time I've used them - well designed and built, and seem stout. Easy to build and service, and so far they've been running great. I'd recommend them.

    Bitex BX211R Boost - Rear

  9. #1569
    Be Excellent to Each Other St. Bernardo's Avatar
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    I'm looking around for a medium 29'er frame with the old 1 1/8" head tube and 135mm rear spacing. Anything out there? Nothing special needed.

    Thanks, B

  10. #1570
    Ayatollah of Rock and Rollah mack_turtle's Avatar
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    Fyi, if you're looking for a frame with an old style headtube because you have a fork with a straight steerer, you can make a straight steerer tube fit in any frame with the right headset. So don't let that be a limiting factor.

  11. #1571
    Be Excellent to Each Other St. Bernardo's Avatar
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    Yeah. The big thing is the 135 wheel spacing. All these damn updated standards.

  12. #1572
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mack_turtle View Post
    Fyi, if you're looking for a frame with an old style headtube because you have a fork with a straight steerer, you can make a straight steerer tube fit in any frame with the right headset. So don't let that be a limiting factor.
    I have a lower reducer for the race. If anyone needs one.

  13. #1573
    Ayatollah of Rock and Rollah mack_turtle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by St. Bernardo View Post
    Yeah. The big thing is the 135 wheel spacing. All these damn updated standards.
    And most hubs can be switched from 142x12 to 135x10. Not all, but most.

  14. #1574
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    I've machined endcaps and run 135x12 bolt through. It is rock solid compared to QR
    AntonioGG and RidingAgain like this.

  15. #1575
    MoJo Mother Superior AntonioGG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJsnoozer View Post
    I've machined endcaps and run 135x12 bolt through. It is rock solid compared to QR
    I'm very intrigued. I do own a Sherline lathe/mill so this may be an excuse to dust it off.

    This is a plain bolt with just a nut on the other side or did you tap the hanger for the bolt?

  16. #1576
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AntonioGG View Post
    I'm very intrigued. I do own a Sherline lathe/mill so this may be an excuse to dust it off.

    This is a plain bolt with just a nut on the other side or did you tap the hanger for the bolt?
    I run this on all of my QR frames. Some of my hub manufacturers like I9 sell a 135x12 endcap as well. This will transform your rear rigidity.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/Stans-NoTub...iABEgJH7fD_BwE


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  17. #1577
    MoJo Pope RidingAgain's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FJsnoozer View Post
    I run this on all of my QR frames. Some of my hub manufacturers like I9 sell a 135x12 endcap as well. This will transform your rear rigidity.
    This is interesting to me as well. I came across some comments about it on a mtbr forum clydesdale thread, so I did a little more research and found out that it's the way to go if you're building a clydesdale wheel for a 135/9 or 10 frame. It's on my list of things to buy for my rear wheel (front wheel is a Lefty hub so no need there). The hub I'm kind of settled on is this one...

    https://www.amazon.com/Hope-Rear-Dis...VH3MZJDCWTW9WZ

    Any thoughts on the hub?

  18. #1578
    MoJo Mother Superior FJsnoozer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RidingAgain View Post
    This is interesting to me as well. I came across some comments about it on a mtbr forum clydesdale thread, so I did a little more research and found out that it's the way to go if you're building a clydesdale wheel for a 135/9 or 10 frame. It's on my list of things to buy for my rear wheel (front wheel is a Lefty hub so no need there). The hub I'm kind of settled on is this one...

    https://www.amazon.com/Hope-Rear-Dis...VH3MZJDCWTW9WZ

    Any thoughts on the hub?
    i'm no Clyde, but I used to ride at 215 pounds loaded up which meant I bent a lot of Skewers and broke plenty of axles in the Greenbelt.

    The hope is a fine hub for a wheel build, however, you want the version with the 12 x 1 35 in caps to do this. Then it will require no machine work at all.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/m...prd%7C528077US

    As a 250 pounder, you may also consider a DT350 rear hub. These are extremely reliable, and do not have a prawl system.

    You can buy the ratchet upgrades for these hubs for higher POE. Hopes will have higher POE out of the box which is a game changer in slow rock gardens.

    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...SABEgJBIvD_BwE

    Appropriate end cap:

    https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...iABEgKTYvD_BwE


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    Last edited by FJsnoozer; Yesterday at 09:37 AM.
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  19. #1579
    MoJo Neophyte rockshins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RidingAgain View Post
    This is interesting to me as well. I came across some comments about it on a mtbr forum clydesdale thread, so I did a little more research and found out that it's the way to go if you're building a clydesdale wheel for a 135/9 or 10 frame. It's on my list of things to buy for my rear wheel (front wheel is a Lefty hub so no need there). The hub I'm kind of settled on is this one...

    https://www.amazon.com/Hope-Rear-Dis...VH3MZJDCWTW9WZ

    Any thoughts on the hub?
    I am a Clydesdale and have had great luck with the Hope hubs, they have held up perfectly for years. I've run the 36 hole and the 32 hole and both are super strong hubs. You should run that adapter, being big I cannot imagine riding a QR ever again, too much flex and destroyed wheels and hubs.
    FJsnoozer and RidingAgain like this.

  20. #1580
    Hugh Jass MrMentallo's Avatar
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    I'll have to chime in on Hope hubs, They are my go to now for multiple reasons. One is that with proper periodic maintenance, they will last decades. Two is that they are incredibly cheap for the value you get. Three is that they have switchable end caps that will make changing standards a less than $20 fix versus having to trash a perfectly good fork or hub set because you decided to get a new frame or wheel set. I just switched a front wheel from 20mm to 15mm for $17. The swap took a small screwdriver and my hands for tools and took less than 5 minutes.

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