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Thread: bb, torque recommendations

  1. #1
    violent femme been_jammin's Avatar
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    bb, torque recommendations

    can't find the 411 on the fsa website and it's not in the box...

    just put on my new FSA Afterburner 180mm cranks

    6061 forged, CNC'd, hollow, beefmeisters and not too heavy

    want to check the recommended tapered bb spindle length for 68mm shell

    gotta get a big torx socket?!

    need the rec. torque for crank bolts

    by the way, the included crank bolts are waaaay long

    also, would like to see if I can get a ss-specific spider and check avail. of fsa bashring as a separate item

    has 5-arm XC 94 BCD spider: want SS 94 BCD and/or SS 110 BCD

    QBP is said to be a distributor, thinking of calling FSA directly to start...fsa home
    what goes up, gets to come back down

  2. #2
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    carlos's Avatar
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    sounds like a nice looking crank.

    the BB torque recomendations don't change too much from on comapny to another.

    for the BB cups it's usually between 49 and 68.6 Newton Meters (435 and 608 inch pounds).

    crank bolts are usually between 34 and 41 Newton Meters (305-391 inch pounds).

    spindle length will be kinda tricky since a different spider will change the chainline a bit.
    shoot for a chainline of 45mm. that's pretty neutral and shouldn't get you into trouble. OR shoot of a 107 or 110mm. that's pretty standard stuff.

    loooong crank bolts? god i wish they'd do that for geared bikes.

    FSA would be the best place to start, the source.

  3. #3
    violent femme been_jammin's Avatar
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    right on

    FSA SS dude says:

    250-350 some arcane units of measure for torque

    110 mm is fine but 107 mm could be better if seeing the spindle is bothering me

    he has some magical formula he will dig out and post on their website forum for calculating spindle length...

    afterburner cranks are not low profile like shimano so you may see a bit more spindle

    proud of their bolt length (aren't we all?)

    says to use absolutely no lube on the spindle as the intention is a "press fit" and lube may lead to too easy a slide on and possible rounding of the taper...

    they have 110 BCD spiders in XC but no ss-specific spiders at this time - but he's working on it

    their bashguards are avail. as a separate item direct from FSA but there's not enough space between the crank and spider so some filing is necessary (it's a dh/freeride bashguard and it's beefy), $40

    SPOT should fit

    FSA CNC'd chainrings are ramped and pinned so SPOT is rec'd
    what goes up, gets to come back down

  4. #4
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    carlos's Avatar
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    been, the closer inboard the cranks sit, theoretically, the longer the bearing life since the spindle isn't getting flexed to hell.

    of course, sometimes the size of the chainring dictates that so it's not an option in that case.

    on the "bone dry spindle/crank arm interface", if you do go dry, make sure the spindle ahs some kinda finish (a la Race Face) to prevent galling (cold weld). the press fit thing is right on but you also want to be able to take the cranks off down the road.

    also, excessive lube leads to rounding out of spindles and crank arms. only need a paper thin film.

    $40 is a good price for that.

  5. #5
    violent femme been_jammin's Avatar
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    more fsa

    also meant to mention that i asked about the fsa bb that had two sets of bearings on th edriveside and one on the non-

    fsa ss dude said that they stopped makin um cause they found the smaller bearings required didn't last as long as a single set of larger bearings

    seems it only sounded like a good idea = marketecture strikes again

    i hate it when i can't get the cranks off... it's galling!
    what goes up, gets to come back down

  6. #6
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    carlos's Avatar
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    that's a bummer. double row bearings rock hard!

    the Syncros BBs are a testament to that. i wish Race Face made a double row bb (DS and NDS) for XC.

    so many mashers trash the current Enduro brand bearings in Race Face BBs withing a few months (in some cases).

    the larger bearing/smaller bearing bit, makes sense.

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