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Thread: Rear Hub question

  1. #1
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    Rear Hub question

    I've decided to retire my Rolf Vector's on my Lemond and now am using a spare wheelset that I bought to race on before I built my new set or race wheels. Basically, the set up is this:

    32 Hole Real Hubs front and rear.
    Velocity Aero head rims
    Front laced 2X and rear laced 3X
    Shimano compatible cassette body.

    My problem is this, I've allways had a hard time back spinning them. It's a little slow back spinning. All so, when you put the bike in a stand, and spin the cranks and let go, the cranks will keep moving and once you start to back spin them, there is a noticeable resistence which will bring the wheel to slowing (not a complete stop though). I'm thinking the cones are too tight on this. What else should I be looking for on this?
    Last edited by TXRAiDR; 10-29-2002 at 08:24 PM.
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  2. #2
    mOjO cHaUfuRr toonces's Avatar
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    Sounds like there's gunk in the freehub body. Or, if it's a singlespeed, the chaain tension is too high.

  3. #3
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    Originally posted by toonces
    Sounds like there's gunk in the freehub body. Or, if it's a singlespeed, the chaain tension is too high.

    I've only overhauled front hubs. Any tips or protocol I should do for a rear hub?
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  4. #4
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    carlos's Avatar
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    what kinda and how old is the rear hub?

    some new hiubs will have a bit of seal drag that needs to be broken in.

    if the hubs are older then a few months, like toonces said, it could be gunked. shimno free hubs are non service able so the best thing to do is buuy a new one. they cost about $30 for a 105 and $55 for an unltegra.

    but keep the only on and see if you can pul it apart and take a look inside if you're interested.

    as for the maintenance of the rear, clean the axle and axle thread weel as well as the balls and the cups.

    but this is a free hub problem.

    you'll know this if you remove the QR and spin the wheel in your hand holding just the axle. if the bearings spin smooth, it's most likely the freehub.

  5. #5
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    Roger that. This is a Real Hub, bought about 2 years ago. Has about 1000 miles on it (racing miles and limited training miles). Been in storage about the last 9 months.
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  6. #6
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    carlos's Avatar
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    well, here's the bad news Real closed up shop.

    good news is, you can still find out of a shimano hub can be sued. because ven though you can mount a shimano cassette, doesn't really mean that you can replace the current freehub with a shimano freehub.

    loosen and remove the cups and cones. remove the axle and the bearings. if the driveside has a cart bearing, that's not a shimano freehub.

    if you have loose ball bearings, pull all those out a stick a 10mm hex key into the hole where the axle slips in....turn it. if it spins freely then it's not a shimano hub.

    at this point you have several options. relcae the wheel with a new hub. look on e-bay for an old real.

    if it doesn't spin, use the short end to loosen the bolt inside. standard thread. once you get that out, check for any identification on the freehub body itself. if it says shimano you're good to go. just replace it and when you re install, don't over tighten the 10mm bolt.

    all of this assumes that the hub isn't working properly because the freehub is damaged.

    if we assume the free hub is damaged, remove the seal from the free hub and flush out the bearings that you see with WD40. use a tooth brush too. keep flushing and don't rise it with water.

    after it';s all cleaned out. try and let it dry out over night. turn the freehub in your hand and make sure the pawls are engaging. lay a bead of oil, not grease, not way not some dry oil, but oil oil 3/4th of the way around the bearings. you don't want to flood them, just lube them. slap on the seal.

    reassemble the hub.

    if you're gonna go the ther 24, bring the wheel. i'l check it out. and you canhave some hennesey AND covasier (the ladies man's perfered drink).

    the name of that drink should be used in spelling contests.

  7. #7
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    Originally posted by carlos
    well, here's the bad news Real closed up shop.

    loosen and remove the cups and cones. remove the axle and the bearings. if the driveside has a cart bearing, that's not a shimano freehub.

    if you have loose ball bearings, pull all those out a stick a 10mm hex key into the hole where the axle slips in....turn it. if it spins freely then it's not a shimano hub.

    at this point you have several options. relcae the wheel with a new hub. look on e-bay for an old real.

    if it doesn't spin, use the short end to loosen the bolt inside. standard thread. once you get that out, check for any identification on the freehub body itself. if it says shimano you're good to go. just replace it and when you re install, don't over tighten the 10mm bolt.

    all of this assumes that the hub isn't working properly because the freehub is damaged.

    if we assume the free hub is damaged, remove the seal from the free hub and flush out the bearings that you see with WD40. use a tooth brush too. keep flushing and don't rise it with water.

    after it';s all cleaned out. try and let it dry out over night. turn the freehub in your hand and make sure the pawls are engaging. lay a bead of oil, not grease, not way not some dry oil, but oil oil 3/4th of the way around the bearings. you don't want to flood them, just lube them. slap on the seal.

    reassemble the hub.
    Okay, I remember the first part, about them closing up shop.

    It's not a Shimano Freehub. When I took the wheel out of the frame, I spun it backwards by the cassette body and it was dragging. I insterted the hex wrench and removed the cones. This has cartridge & needle bearings, no ball bearings. I removed the axle and the shim inside the hub body. Now, one thing I did notice was that when I removed the cassette body a seal automatically popped out. When I went to reassemble everything, the seal didn't fit inside the hub body. When I left the seal out, it (the hub & cassette body) spun easily backwards. There is a little play without the seal in, and I'm concerned about that. When I put the seal back in, it dragged again.

    In regards to the seal, it looks like it's a bit big (i.e. it doesn't fit in the hub body without bunching up.) It does fit on the outside of the cassette body though, with a little stretching. Did that make sense?
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  8. #8
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    carlos's Avatar
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    got it.

    better to have the seal since it'll keep crud out.

    see if it might not be something that sits over the freehub body. a little stretching is ok but if there is no groove for it or shoulder for it to sit on, the seal might be damaged or worn.

    the best thing to do is replace the seal with a smaller one for the inside of the freehub since that's where it seems to be placed.

  9. #9
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    Thanks Carlos. I went to Real's Web Site and took a look at some of the technical features. I printed out an exploded diagram of the hub and reassembled it using their specs and instructions. Still tight. I decided to put some oil on the seal lip and the free hub body again (this time really swathering both). WOrks like a charm now! The seal sits just a micro mm above hub body, and when you tighten down the free hub body it squeshes that top part of the seal. Thanks again for the tips & Help.
    Last edited by TXRAiDR; 11-01-2002 at 09:28 AM.
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  10. #10
    try explaining the internet to a bum!
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    carlos's Avatar
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    cool!

    i wonder who picked them up?

    Trek?

  11. #11
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
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    I don't know. I did see the same hubs advertised on Cambria's website. They look like sell out deals to me. I wouldn't mind getting another set, but like you had mentioned earlier, replacement parts will be hard to come by. I'll probably just save the lettuce and get campy chorus sometime next year.
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

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