Results 1 to 6 of 6

Thread: Chain and Front Derailliur Q's

  1. #1
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Northside Side of H-town!!!
    Posts
    3,022

    Chain and Front Derailliur Q's

    Evening mojos. Got a question for you all that I just can't figure out. I'm having some serious trouble dialing in my front derailleur. I just can't seem to get it right, after about 24 rides. I'm running a campy 10 speed set up and am getting chain throw when I shift into the big ring, and sticky shifting into my little ring. I seem to get it dialed in on the stand with no problem, but out on the roads is a different story. I'm thinking of tweaking the cage a little (compressing it in) because it's a bit bowed out compared to the other derailleur's on my other bikes. Any thoughts on this solution???
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  2. #2
    The William Sapphire of Bike Mechanics
    MoJo SuppoRteR
    car!os's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    The Barney Fife of Metropolitan Cities
    Posts
    3,889
    TXRAiDR.....yo....basics....if you remove the cable from the front der....does it swing freely? gatorade and things like that spill and turn glue-like in pivots and things.

    if it doesn't swing freely and you DO use sports drinks...remove the der from the frame and wash with hot water and soap.



    other stuff.....is the crankset camapgnolo?

    how long has it been since you've replaced the cables and housing?

    are the portions of housing long enough not to bind anywhere?
    It’s impossible to rate welding/brazing quality by looking at a finished frame joint, even an unpainted one. Files, sandblasting, and a good paint job can take care of that. Such a joint will look stellar unpainted, but won’t last. Yet people all the time look at frames and say, “Nice welding/brazing…” The point isn’t to make you paranoid, just to stop saying things like, “That’s nice welding/brazing,” when you see a painted/unpainted frame. -- Grant Petersen

  3. #3
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Northside Side of H-town!!!
    Posts
    3,022
    Thanks Car!os. Well, it's happening on two different bikes. One runs a Campy 10-sp Centaur setup, probably less than a 1,000 miles on it total. Cable housing has length to it and I can't see or feel any binding or pulling. It's a bottom swing FD, and moves freely.
    The other bike runs a Sor/FSA set up. That one is having trouble going up or down with the FD in flats, downhills, and uphills. Same thing with that one. I'm wondering if it's the height of the FD on the seat tube. Looking through some of the product manuals, the manufacturer recommends approximately 2mm from the top chain ring. Mine, the campy drive train, is measure 8 mm, and her bike, the shimano/fsa drive train, measures 5. I'm going to lower the FD and adjust the cable. I do think that will solve it. I'll post up with the results after the next couple of rides. I'll also give both bikes a good cleaning and see if any junk loosens up. Thanks again oh sultan of the Night train!
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  4. #4
    MONKEY WRENCH GEAX DIRTE's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    new braunfels tx
    Posts
    95
    I've seen this. Yes the mounting height is important, in this case the chain is pushing on the narrow part of the cage. Gently straighten the cage w/ your thumbs. Reset height and dial in you stops and cable length. Make sure the outer plate of the cage is inline with your large chainring. You should be fine.

  5. #5
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Northside Side of H-town!!!
    Posts
    3,022
    Well so far so good. The campy drive train bike is working like clockwork. The Shimano drivetrain bike has some stiffness in the downshift, probably the cable being too tight, but other than that, it's working like a charm now.

    I ended up bringing down the FD abut 5 mm on the Lemond (campy drive train) and 3mm on the Marin (Shimano). This weekend is hills, so we'll see how it does there too.

    Thanks folks!
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

  6. #6
    Mojo Road Warrior TXRAiDR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Northside Side of H-town!!!
    Posts
    3,022
    Well I'm one for two right now. The problem with the Campy drive train cleared up, but the ShimaNO has really been a pain in the backside. I'm going to give it a day and the take everything off and start over again with it. Thanks for all the tips.
    "As long as I breathe, I attack"-Bernard Hinault
    I've got more skill on two wheels than the majority of people have on two legs.

Remove Ads

Search tags for this page (caching method: table)

There are currently no search engine referrals.
Click on a term to search our site for related topics.

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •