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Thread: Front hub is tight

  1. 06-09-2004, 08:03 PM #1
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    Front hub is tight

    I have a low end hub on my old ridgid. The hub is only about a year old. It came off my new bike when I went to disc. It is a 4Roc hub. The cone nut became loose. I tried to tighten it, but when it gets finger tight it barely wants to turn. Im assuming it need cleaned and lubed. Now the question. Since it is not sealed bierings will I run into bierings that fall loose when disasembled? Any tricks or directions that will help?
    "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made or kept so by the exertion of better men than himself."

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  2. 06-10-2004, 10:51 AM #2
    car!os
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    HEH HEH HEH.....does it have only a cone or a lock nut as well....

    the low end hubs are sealed but the bearings aren't in a sealed cartridge....

    it's refered to as loose ball or caged...either way....

    if it's locking up the cups could be pitted...or the bearings as well....if this is the case then the best thing to do is replce the hub....you can't replace the cups on those hubs....

    yup...the bearings will all fall out when you remove the axl if there isn't enough grease to keep them in place....

    set a towel or rag down on the table you'll work on so they don't bounce....and have a magnet handy to keep then on one spot on the bench....

    i'd say open it up...inspect the balls, cone and cup surface...if they are anything but mirror smooth...it'll be cheaper to get a new hub....

    what bike did this hub come on?
    It’s impossible to rate welding/brazing quality by looking at a finished frame joint, even an unpainted one. Files, sandblasting, and a good paint job can take care of that. Such a joint will look stellar unpainted, but won’t last. Yet people all the time look at frames and say, “Nice welding/brazing…” The point isn’t to make you paranoid, just to stop saying things like, “That’s nice welding/brazing,” when you see a painted/unpainted frame. -- Grant Petersen
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  3. 06-10-2004, 11:42 PM #3
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    I belive it only has the cone nut. It was Laced on a Wimmer Zac rim. It came on a 2002 Oryx, Freak 125. Its a Canadian made bike, frame by ProCycle. The 125 is lowest component group on this frame. Upgraded to as good or better than top group. Still under MSRP . Oh ya the hub, When I upgraded to Disc and an LX/XT drivetrain I moved all the 8 speed and V brakes over to the 10yr old Specialized Hard Rock, CroMoly Ridgid. Noticed the wheel loose when putting front wheel on after transport. It moved even after quick release down. Removed and inspected, more than finger tight and it was real tight, cone nut still loose, just snug no free spin.
    "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made or kept so by the exertion of better men than himself."

    John Stuart Mills
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  4. 06-11-2004, 11:41 AM #4
    car!os
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    one cone? if there's only one cone then it has to be a cartridge bearing or have some kinda capture plate behind the single cone....

    in either case...replacing the hub will be cheaper...

    if it is a loose ball hub you can't replce the cups and if it's a cart bearing, you'l have to figure out a way to get teh bearing out (not possible some times) and have it replaced....if replced you'll want to use a better bearing that the stock...which might end up costing more than a whole new hub.....
    It’s impossible to rate welding/brazing quality by looking at a finished frame joint, even an unpainted one. Files, sandblasting, and a good paint job can take care of that. Such a joint will look stellar unpainted, but won’t last. Yet people all the time look at frames and say, “Nice welding/brazing…” The point isn’t to make you paranoid, just to stop saying things like, “That’s nice welding/brazing,” when you see a painted/unpainted frame. -- Grant Petersen
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  5. 06-11-2004, 08:20 PM #5
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    13 mm cone nut with lock nut. Shop didn't have a 13 mm so I gave it to James to rebuild if possible (charging me less than the tool). Im asking Momma for this for father day Stand and tool kit . Should I save my pennies for somthing else?
    "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse. The person who has nothing for which he is willing to fight, nothing which is more important than his own personal safety, is a miserable creature and has no chance of being free unless made or kept so by the exertion of better men than himself."

    John Stuart Mills
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  6. 06-12-2004, 01:04 PM #6
    car!os
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    HEH HEH HEH...not a bad deal....hope it works out....
    It’s impossible to rate welding/brazing quality by looking at a finished frame joint, even an unpainted one. Files, sandblasting, and a good paint job can take care of that. Such a joint will look stellar unpainted, but won’t last. Yet people all the time look at frames and say, “Nice welding/brazing…” The point isn’t to make you paranoid, just to stop saying things like, “That’s nice welding/brazing,” when you see a painted/unpainted frame. -- Grant Petersen
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